A Cowl for Me!

Isn't this a beautiful stitch?!  Depending on how you look at it you can see v's or x's or stars.  And it creates these lovely diagonal ridges across the surface.

I started out trying to make a nice dense, sturdy fabric for a cowl.  I wanted it to hold its shape so I could pull it up over my face without squishing my big nose.  I can then fold it in or scrunch it down if it is not so miserable outside.  I wasn't expecting it to look so... elegant.  I feel so fancy when I put it this cowl on.  


















The cowl is made by repeating a type of Trinity Stitch (more details in the pattern) in the round, except the 2nd leg of the stitch gets worked over the next stitch into the stitch below it.  So I guess you would call it the Trinity Spike Stitch (which I will do unless I am corrected). 

If you plan on making the cowl using different yarn, or using this stitch to create something else, keep in mind it does create a stiff fabric.  Maybe try a test swatch to see if your yarn and hook size create the look and feel you want.   Try to keep a loose gauge, and remember that most yarns do soften up a bit after being washed.  

The Trinity Spike Stitch requires a multiple of 2 stitches, plus 1 for the starting chain.  So you can easily change the size of this cowl by increasing/decreasing starting chains or increasing/decreasing the amount of rounds worked.

Beautifully Elegant Cowl

Materials:

2 skeins Caron Simply Soft, color Off White

size K 6.5mm crochet hook 

stitch marker

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC3TOG - single crochet 3 together: Insert hook into designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.  This gives you 1 stitch with 3 "legs".  (In this pattern, it is performed like the Trinity Stitch, where the first leg is placed in the same place as the last leg of the previous stitch.  After the first row, it is still performed like the Trinity Stitch, except the 2nd leg will be worked into the stitch below to create the Trinity Spike Stitch.)

Holding 2 strands of yarn together, Chain 75
Row 1: Insert hook into 2nd chain and SC3TOG, CH 1, (insert hook into same chain as the last leg was worked and SC3TOG, CH 1) repeat across until you have 1 unworked chain stitch remaining.  Work the 3 legs of the last SC3TOG into the same stitch as last leg, the last chain stitch, and the same chain as the first leg from the beginning of the row to create a circle (see picture below), making sure not to twist the row as you connect the 2 ends. CH 1 (keep this last CH 1 a bit tighter to avoid a hole).  74 stitches.  
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Rounds 1-25: Create the beginning SC3TOG of the round as follows: Insert hook into chain stitch just made, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into stitch where first and last leg of the previous round meet, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into top chain of first SC3TOG made from previous round, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and draw through 4 loops on hook.  Place a stitch marker in the stitch just made.  CH 1.  (SC3TOG the rest of the round as follows: Insert hook into same space as last leg of previous stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the place where 2 legs meet in the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into top chain of next SC3TOG, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook - Trinity Spike Stitch made.  CH 1)  Repeat Trinity Spike Stitch, CH 1 around.  The last leg of the last stitch should be in same space as the first leg of the first stitch of the round.  (Keep the last CH 1 of each round a bit tighter to avoid a hole.)  74 stitches.

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.

Complete last SC3TOG of first row like this

Complete first Trinity Spike Stitch of each round like this

Complete the rest of the Trinity Spike Stitches like this

When you come up to your stitch marker, you know this is the last Trinity Spike Stitch of the round.

The anatomy of the Trinity Spike Stitch:
1.) first leg of current stitch 
2.) second leg of current stitch
3.) last leg of current stitch (next stitch would begin in same place)
4,5.) 2 legs meet in stitch below from previous round
6.) stitch created by the SC3TOG
7.) the CH 1

The second leg of each stitch will be in the place where 4 and 5 meet below.  You will never work into the 6 created by each SC3TOG.


I didn't add any sort of edging because, well, I didn't want to.  But you certainly could.  Go ahead and "make it your own"!  

A Note About Hats

The first time I crocheted a hat, I noticed it was looking like it had corners instead of being a circle.  I was really new at crocheting and wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong.  I worked with a person who crocheted, so I asked her about it.  She asked me if I was staggering the increases, to which my reply was, "huh?".  I said I was following the pattern, and the way the increases lined up made an octagon shape.  She told me that everyone knows you are supposed to stagger the increases, they just write patterns that way for convenience (not sure if she meant the attitude, but it certainly came across).  So, in case no one has told you about this little trick, I will show you a way to keep your hat a circle through the increase rounds (not that it is really that important because it will look like a circle after the increase rounds, but this will eliminate any corners that may form).

There isn't really a trick involved - it is just a matter of changing where you place your increases each round.  This will work for any basic crochet hat that uses the same stitch all the way through (no cables or clusters or shells...follow the pattern with those).  All hats begin the same way - with a ring that you crochet so many stitches into (lets say 8).  Then, for so many rounds you must increase stitches to get the hat bigger.  Usually the increase in each round is equal to the number you first started with, in this case 8.  So each round after the first you would increase 8 stitches at even intervals.  Patterns are usually written so you do the increases like this:
         Round 1: SC 8 into ring
         Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around
         Round 3: (2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next) repeat around
         Round 4: (2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2) repeat around
         Round 5: (2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 3) repeat around
And on and on like this until the increase rounds are done.

Increasing this way will cause corners where the increases are and you will see lines coming out from the center of the hat.  To avoid this, instead of doing Round 4 like (1,2), 3, 4, (1,2), 3, 4... do 1, (2,3), 4, 1, (2,3), 4 ... and Round 5 like 1, 2, 3, (4,5)... and Round 6 like 1, 2, (3,4), 5, 6... and Round 7 like (1,2), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7... Still keep the increases evenly spaced throughout the round, but change it so they never line up over the increase from the previous round.  This will give you a circle shape with no corners or lines.

Here is an example from my Timeless Hat pattern:

The square on the left was crocheted as written in the pattern (see the lines that make an "X"?), and the circle on the right was crocheted by staggering the increases (no corners, no lines).  This example is a little extreme because most hats would make closer to an octagon shape, but the way the increases are in this particular pattern, you get a square.  And if you worked it up that way, it would be fine.  It would still be a circular hat at the end, but you would possibly see 4 corners sticking out of the top of your head that I'm not sure would mellow out after washing. 

Peppermint Candy Hat

I recently remembered an afghan I saw in a book from the library that was made up of what looked like those peppermint candy swirls.  I thought it would make cute as a hat.  The problem is, I have looked at like a thousand pattern books, so who the heck knows which one the pattern was in. So, off I went trying to create it on my own.

I assumed it was made by changing colors every few stitches, so that is what I tried first.  I couldn't even get through the 3rd round doing it that way.  Dropping the yarn and picking up the new color every couple stitches drove me crazy.  I just wasn't able to get into the rhythm of it.  I nixed that idea and found a way to work it where I would only change colors once per round.  It is probably not the most conventional way to make this, and it uses more yarn than necessary, but it was a much more pleasant experience and it looks great (which is really all that matters).

The look is achieved by working the colors into the stitch of the same color and chaining past the stitches of the alternate color.  Then switch colors on the next round, push the chain stitches to the back, and work into the stitches that were ignored during the last round.  


Keep your chains looser so the hat won't lose its stretch.  The extra chains at the end of each round are to get you to the right place for the beginning of the next round.   Make sure to pull the dropped yarn tight after making the first stitch with new color.

If I were going to sell this, I would line the inside because it is a bit unsightly.  But it is for my baby niece, and I know my sister-in-law won't mind.  I just hope it fits well.  I have it on a ball that measures 18" around and it is just about stretched all the way while still being comfortable.

Peppermint Candy Hat (Baby size only, should fit 16-18" head)

Materials:

Caron Simply Soft, color White 

Caron Simply Soft, color Harvest Red 
Bernat Pipsqueak, color White (for the trim)
size I 5.5mm crochet hook 

stitch marker (optional)

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC - single crochet
HDC - half-double crochet
SS - slip stitch

Make a ring
Round 1: With Caron White, (HDC 1, CH 1) 6 times in ring.  SS in first HDC made, SS to first CH space of the round.  DON'T pull ring closed yet.  12 sititches

Round 2: With Red, CH 1, (HDC down into ring, CH 2) 6 times.  SS in first HDC made, SS in first CH space of the round.  Can close ring now.  18 stitches  

Round 3: With White, CH 1, working in front of the chain from previous round from now through the rest of the pattern, (2 HDC in HDC, CH 2) around. CH 2, SS in first chain space of the round,  24 stitches

Round 4: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in HDC, CH 3) around.  CH 2, SS in first chain space of the round.  30 stitches

Round 5: White, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in next, CH 3) around.  CH 3, SS in first chain space of the round.  36 stitches

Round 6: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in next, CH 4) around.  CH 3, SS in first chain space.  42 stitches

Round 7: White, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 2 HDC's, CH 4) around.  CH 4, SS in first chain space.  48 stitches

Round 8: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 2 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 4, SS in first chain space.  54 stitches

Round 9: White, CH 1 (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 3 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 10: Red, CH 1 (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 3 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 11: White, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 12: Red, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Rounds 13 - 28: Repeat rounds 11 and 12

Round 29: White, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 White HDC's, SC in each of 5 Red HDC's) repeat around.  60 stitches

Round 30:  With Pipsqueak White, CH 1, 1 HDC in each stitch around.  60 stitches (You may want to use a stitch marker to mark beginning of next round.)

Round 31: CH 1, (1 HDC in 8 stitches, HDC 2 together) repeat around.  54 stitches

Round 32: CH 1, 1 HDC in each stitch around.  54 stitches

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  

And if anyone knows where to find the afghan pattern I was talking about, please post it in the comments.  Thanks!