A Little Quickie

I have been working on a knit sweater for my brother-in-law for many weeks now.  It was something I agreed to do (and started) last year.  It is an unpleasant project on many levels, so it had been put safely away for many months now.  I finally decided that the only way I am going to finish it is to just do it! 

But I needed a break from that project for some instant gratification.  I decided to make some coasters.

Nothing fancy - just made circles by working into the space between stitches instead of the tops of the stitches (under the "V", not into it).  And instead of putting one DC in each stitch, I made a bobble/cluster of sorts by putting 2 DC's joined together in each stitch (kind of like a DC decrease, but keeping the work in the same stitch - not doing a decrease).  I really like how it kinda reminds me of a sunflower or something.  Super easy, and a great way to use up scrap yarn. 

Quickie Coasters

Materials:

Caron Simply Soft - 2 different colors

size H 5mm crochet hook 

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
SS - slip stitch
CH - chain
Cluster- yarn over, insert hook into space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops on hook (2 loops remain on hook), yarn over and insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops.  Yarn over and pull through 3 remaining loops on hook. 

Note:  With the exception of the join, ALL stitches are made in between the stitches from the previous round.  Insert your hook right in between 2 double crochet stitches, making sure you are under all parts of the "V" that was created at the tops of the stitches.

Make a ring
Round 1: CH 2, 1 DC (this counts as first Cluster), work 9 Clusters around.  Join into first DC made (ignore the CH 2).  10 stitches.  
.
Round 2: SS into space between first and second clusters from previous round (under the "V", not into it).  (CH 2, 1 DC, 1 Cluster) all in same space, *insert hook into space between next 2 clusters from previous round and work 2 Clusters in same space*  repeat around.  Join into first DC made (ignore the CH 2).  20 stitches.

Round 3:  SS into space between first and second cluster from previous round.  (CH 2, 1 DC, 1 Cluster) all in same space, insert hook into next space and work 1 Cluster.  *Work 2 Clusters in next space, work 1 Cluster in next space*  repeat around.  Join into first DC made (ignore the CH 2).  30 stitches.

Round 4:  Change color and SS into space between first and second cluster from previous round.  (CH 2, 1 DC, 1 Cluster) all in same space, insert hook into next space and work 1 Cluster.  *Work 2 Clusters in next space, work 1 Cluster in next space, work 1 Cluster in next space*  repeat around.  Join into first DC made (ignore the CH 2).  40 stitches. 

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.

A Cowl for Me!

Isn't this a beautiful stitch?!  Depending on how you look at it you can see v's or x's or stars.  And it creates these lovely diagonal ridges across the surface.

I started out trying to make a nice dense, sturdy fabric for a cowl.  I wanted it to hold its shape so I could pull it up over my face without squishing my big nose.  I can then fold it in or scrunch it down if it is not so miserable outside.  I wasn't expecting it to look so... elegant.  I feel so fancy when I put it this cowl on.  


















The cowl is made by repeating a type of Trinity Stitch (more details in the pattern) in the round, except the 2nd leg of the stitch gets worked over the next stitch into the stitch below it.  So I guess you would call it the Trinity Spike Stitch (which I will do unless I am corrected). 

If you plan on making the cowl using different yarn, or using this stitch to create something else, keep in mind it does create a stiff fabric.  Maybe try a test swatch to see if your yarn and hook size create the look and feel you want.   Try to keep a loose gauge, and remember that most yarns do soften up a bit after being washed.  

The Trinity Spike Stitch requires a multiple of 2 stitches, plus 1 for the starting chain.  So you can easily change the size of this cowl by increasing/decreasing starting chains or increasing/decreasing the amount of rounds worked.

Beautifully Elegant Cowl

Materials:

2 skeins Caron Simply Soft, color Off White

size K 6.5mm crochet hook 

stitch marker

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC3TOG - single crochet 3 together: Insert hook into designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.  This gives you 1 stitch with 3 "legs".  (In this pattern, it is performed like the Trinity Stitch, where the first leg is placed in the same place as the last leg of the previous stitch.  After the first row, it is still performed like the Trinity Stitch, except the 2nd leg will be worked into the stitch below to create the Trinity Spike Stitch.)

Holding 2 strands of yarn together, Chain 75
Row 1: Insert hook into 2nd chain and SC3TOG, CH 1, (insert hook into same chain as the last leg was worked and SC3TOG, CH 1) repeat across until you have 1 unworked chain stitch remaining.  Work the 3 legs of the last SC3TOG into the same stitch as last leg, the last chain stitch, and the same chain as the first leg from the beginning of the row to create a circle (see picture below), making sure not to twist the row as you connect the 2 ends. CH 1 (keep this last CH 1 a bit tighter to avoid a hole).  74 stitches.  
.
Rounds 1-25: Create the beginning SC3TOG of the round as follows: Insert hook into chain stitch just made, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into stitch where first and last leg of the previous round meet, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into top chain of first SC3TOG made from previous round, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and draw through 4 loops on hook.  Place a stitch marker in the stitch just made.  CH 1.  (SC3TOG the rest of the round as follows: Insert hook into same space as last leg of previous stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the place where 2 legs meet in the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into top chain of next SC3TOG, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook - Trinity Spike Stitch made.  CH 1)  Repeat Trinity Spike Stitch, CH 1 around.  The last leg of the last stitch should be in same space as the first leg of the first stitch of the round.  (Keep the last CH 1 of each round a bit tighter to avoid a hole.)  74 stitches.

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.

Complete last SC3TOG of first row like this

Complete first Trinity Spike Stitch of each round like this

Complete the rest of the Trinity Spike Stitches like this

When you come up to your stitch marker, you know this is the last Trinity Spike Stitch of the round.

The anatomy of the Trinity Spike Stitch:
1.) first leg of current stitch 
2.) second leg of current stitch
3.) last leg of current stitch (next stitch would begin in same place)
4,5.) 2 legs meet in stitch below from previous round
6.) stitch created by the SC3TOG
7.) the CH 1

The second leg of each stitch will be in the place where 4 and 5 meet below.  You will never work into the 6 created by each SC3TOG.


I didn't add any sort of edging because, well, I didn't want to.  But you certainly could.  Go ahead and "make it your own"!  

A Note About Hats

The first time I crocheted a hat, I noticed it was looking like it had corners instead of being a circle.  I was really new at crocheting and wasn't sure if I was doing something wrong.  I worked with a person who crocheted, so I asked her about it.  She asked me if I was staggering the increases, to which my reply was, "huh?".  I said I was following the pattern, and the way the increases lined up made an octagon shape.  She told me that everyone knows you are supposed to stagger the increases, they just write patterns that way for convenience (not sure if she meant the attitude, but it certainly came across).  So, in case no one has told you about this little trick, I will show you a way to keep your hat a circle through the increase rounds (not that it is really that important because it will look like a circle after the increase rounds, but this will eliminate any corners that may form).

There isn't really a trick involved - it is just a matter of changing where you place your increases each round.  This will work for any basic crochet hat that uses the same stitch all the way through (no cables or clusters or shells...follow the pattern with those).  All hats begin the same way - with a ring that you crochet so many stitches into (lets say 8).  Then, for so many rounds you must increase stitches to get the hat bigger.  Usually the increase in each round is equal to the number you first started with, in this case 8.  So each round after the first you would increase 8 stitches at even intervals.  Patterns are usually written so you do the increases like this:
         Round 1: SC 8 into ring
         Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch around
         Round 3: (2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next) repeat around
         Round 4: (2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 2) repeat around
         Round 5: (2 SC in first stitch, 1 SC in next 3) repeat around
And on and on like this until the increase rounds are done.

Increasing this way will cause corners where the increases are and you will see lines coming out from the center of the hat.  To avoid this, instead of doing Round 4 like (1,2), 3, 4, (1,2), 3, 4... do 1, (2,3), 4, 1, (2,3), 4 ... and Round 5 like 1, 2, 3, (4,5)... and Round 6 like 1, 2, (3,4), 5, 6... and Round 7 like (1,2), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7... Still keep the increases evenly spaced throughout the round, but change it so they never line up over the increase from the previous round.  This will give you a circle shape with no corners or lines.

Here is an example from my Timeless Hat pattern:

The square on the left was crocheted as written in the pattern (see the lines that make an "X"?), and the circle on the right was crocheted by staggering the increases (no corners, no lines).  This example is a little extreme because most hats would make closer to an octagon shape, but the way the increases are in this particular pattern, you get a square.  And if you worked it up that way, it would be fine.  It would still be a circular hat at the end, but you would possibly see 4 corners sticking out of the top of your head that I'm not sure would mellow out after washing. 

Peppermint Candy Hat

I recently remembered an afghan I saw in a book from the library that was made up of what looked like those peppermint candy swirls.  I thought it would make cute as a hat.  The problem is, I have looked at like a thousand pattern books, so who the heck knows which one the pattern was in. So, off I went trying to create it on my own.

I assumed it was made by changing colors every few stitches, so that is what I tried first.  I couldn't even get through the 3rd round doing it that way.  Dropping the yarn and picking up the new color every couple stitches drove me crazy.  I just wasn't able to get into the rhythm of it.  I nixed that idea and found a way to work it where I would only change colors once per round.  It is probably not the most conventional way to make this, and it uses more yarn than necessary, but it was a much more pleasant experience and it looks great (which is really all that matters).

The look is achieved by working the colors into the stitch of the same color and chaining past the stitches of the alternate color.  Then switch colors on the next round, push the chain stitches to the back, and work into the stitches that were ignored during the last round.  


Keep your chains looser so the hat won't lose its stretch.  The extra chains at the end of each round are to get you to the right place for the beginning of the next round.   Make sure to pull the dropped yarn tight after making the first stitch with new color.

If I were going to sell this, I would line the inside because it is a bit unsightly.  But it is for my baby niece, and I know my sister-in-law won't mind.  I just hope it fits well.  I have it on a ball that measures 18" around and it is just about stretched all the way while still being comfortable.

Peppermint Candy Hat (Baby size only, should fit 16-18" head)

Materials:

Caron Simply Soft, color White 

Caron Simply Soft, color Harvest Red 
Bernat Pipsqueak, color White (for the trim)
size I 5.5mm crochet hook 

stitch marker (optional)

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC - single crochet
HDC - half-double crochet
SS - slip stitch

Make a ring
Round 1: With Caron White, (HDC 1, CH 1) 6 times in ring.  SS in first HDC made, SS to first CH space of the round.  DON'T pull ring closed yet.  12 sititches

Round 2: With Red, CH 1, (HDC down into ring, CH 2) 6 times.  SS in first HDC made, SS in first CH space of the round.  Can close ring now.  18 stitches  

Round 3: With White, CH 1, working in front of the chain from previous round from now through the rest of the pattern, (2 HDC in HDC, CH 2) around. CH 2, SS in first chain space of the round,  24 stitches

Round 4: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in HDC, CH 3) around.  CH 2, SS in first chain space of the round.  30 stitches

Round 5: White, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in next, CH 3) around.  CH 3, SS in first chain space of the round.  36 stitches

Round 6: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in next, CH 4) around.  CH 3, SS in first chain space.  42 stitches

Round 7: White, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 2 HDC's, CH 4) around.  CH 4, SS in first chain space.  48 stitches

Round 8: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 2 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 4, SS in first chain space.  54 stitches

Round 9: White, CH 1 (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 3 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 10: Red, CH 1 (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 3 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 11: White, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 12: Red, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Rounds 13 - 28: Repeat rounds 11 and 12

Round 29: White, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 White HDC's, SC in each of 5 Red HDC's) repeat around.  60 stitches

Round 30:  With Pipsqueak White, CH 1, 1 HDC in each stitch around.  60 stitches (You may want to use a stitch marker to mark beginning of next round.)

Round 31: CH 1, (1 HDC in 8 stitches, HDC 2 together) repeat around.  54 stitches

Round 32: CH 1, 1 HDC in each stitch around.  54 stitches

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  

And if anyone knows where to find the afghan pattern I was talking about, please post it in the comments.  Thanks!

Finishing the Unfinished

Looking for something quick to finish before my son is off school next week.  So, I figure this is the perfect time to pick up something that has been laying around unfinished.  I found a Kindle cover I had started making that just needed to be sewed up.  

I had made the same exact cover for my mom a while back, and one of her friends said she really liked it.  So I started to make one as a present - LAST YEAR.  It is very easy to never finish something when no one even knows you are making it.  I should start keeping things on display until they are completed so people can bug me about finishing them.

I came up with this pattern when I was playing around with the star stitch with some Caron Simply Soft in the color Baby Brights Ombre.  I found if you do it just right, you get nice stripes without having to do color changes (no color changes = much fewer ends to weave in = I'm a happier person).  

I love the way it came out, but, the project is harder than it should be.  The stitch pattern itself is quite simple, but the coloring of the yarn made it a bit cumbersome.  The yellow and orange sections of yarn are just a bit longer than the rest (you can see how the yellow stripes kind of bow out in the picture), so you have to really play with your tension to get the striped effect. 

All you do is make a rectangle by crocheting the star stitch.  If you have never done the star stitch before, I will tell you it is very easy once you learn it.  It is made through a combination of 2 rows. Once you learn the 2 rows, you are good to go. There are many tutorials online that show how it is done.  Unfortunately, they are are some differences depending on where you look.  This is how I did the star stitch:

Make a foundation chain in a multiple of 2 plus 3 extra

ROW 1:

Beginning star:   Insert hook into 2nd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. Keep both loops on the hook.  Insert hook into next chain, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Keep three loops on hook.  Continue this way in the next 3 chains.  You now have 6 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.  Chain 1 to close the stitch. 

Rest of stars to end of row:  To start the next stitch (and each stitch after), insert your hook into the center of the star just made (where you just chained 1), yarn over and pull up a loop, keeping both loops on hook.  Next, insert hook under the last spoke of the star just made (actually going through the stitch), yarn over and pull up a loop, keeping 3 loops on hook.  Then insert hook into same chain that the last spoke of previous star used, yarn over and pull up a loop, keeping 4 loops on hook.  Then insert hook into each of the next 2 chains, yarning over and pulling up a loop as you go.  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on hook.  Chain 1 to close stitch.  Continue this way making stars until last chain in row.  1 HDC in last chain.  Turn.

Row 2 and all even numbered rows: Chain 2.  2 HDC's in each center of star across.  1 HDC in last stitch in row  (which is the first spoke of first star in previous row).  Turn.

Row 3 and rest of odd numbered rows:  Chain 3.  Insert hook into 2nd chain from the hook and pull up a loop.  Pull up a loop through the next chain and next 3 stitches, keeping all loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on hook.  Chain 1 to close the stitch.  As done in row 1, start the next stitch (and each stitch after) by inserting hook into center of star just made and pulling up a loop.  Pull up a loop through last spoke of star just made.  Pull up a loop through same HDC the last spoke of previous star used.  Pull up a loop through each of next 2 HDC's.  Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on hook.  Chain 1 to close stitch.  Continue making stars along row until reaching the last stitch (the chain 2 from previous row).  1 HDC in last stitch.  Turn.

Rows 4 - end:  Continue alternating rows 2 and 3, ending with row 2. 

You will see that the pattern actually makes the color stripes go vertically.  I made my piece wider and shorter because I wanted the stripes to go horizontally when I sewed it all together (the picture of the long rectangle is the piece turned sideways).

For this particular piece, I used Caron Simply Soft color Baby Brights Ombre.  With a size G hook, I made a chain of 113 so that last chain on the hook is the beginning of the purple segment after the white.  And I worked through 20 rows.  After completing the rectangle, I attached white yarn to the white edge and put (SC, 2HDC, SC) in the spot that lined up with the center of each star across to make a nicer edge.  I then folded it so the stripes lined up from front to back and sewed it together, leaving a flap at the top to fold over.  When I made my mom's, I made a band to tuck the flap into, but I think I will just put a couple buttons on this one.

You can make other sized objects as well, just turn the work at the right color.  The color pattern is: yellow, orange, pink, blue, purple, white, purple, blue, pink, orange, yellow, orange... The color pattern turns on itself at yellow and white, so that is where you need to turn the object you are making to keep the rows.  But keep in mind that this stitch creates a denser, stiffer fabric.

Can you use other variegated yarns and achieve the same results?  I don't know.  The color pattern of the yarn would have to reverse itself like Caron's does.  And Caron's color segments each measure about 6" when pulled tight, so if the segments of another yarn match up, it should work, or change your hook size to make it work.  

Happy Birthday, Sis!

Since I already had some purple yarn out for that owl hat, I figured it would work up into a great hat for my sister.  I planned on it being a Christmas present, but since I finished it in time (and since I have no self control), I decided to give it to her as a birthday present.  I absolutely LOVE it! 

Now, the pattern for this hat looks a bit wordy and confusing, but I promise you it is super easy.  So, don't scroll down to the free pattern yet.  Let me explain something first.  This is the kind of pattern where you can see what you are supposed to do while you are doing it (you may find you don't really need the pattern anymore once you get going).  For the most part, everything is done in the same place from previous rounds: FPDC's go around FPDC's, V-Puff's go into V-Puffs, ESC's in ESC's.  So after the increases, it is really a simple pattern -  3 ESC's, 2 FPDC's, 3 ESC's, V-Puff...  

But what the heck is an ESC?  I know!  This is the first time I have ever needed to use an extended single crochet stitch.  It is basically a stitch that starts like a single crochet, but finishes kinda like a double.  
EXTENDED SINGLE CROCHET:
1.) Insert your hook into the specific stitch, pull up a loop, and yarn over (just like single crochet)
2.) But now only pull that yarn over through 1 loop on your hook, not both (2 loops left on hook).
3.) Then you yarn over again and pull through both loops on your hook.  

I had to use the ESC because the half-double and double crochet didn't work for me.  The half-double makes everything go on a diagonal when worked in the round, which I didn't want for this hat.  And the double crochet was too tall and made the FPDC ribs curl.  Now, the double crochet stitch might work for others, as we all use our hook a bit differently, but for me it was too tall.  So if you would rather try that then go ahead, but the ESC is really easy to do.

FRONT-POST DOUBLE CROCHET:
1.) Yarn over and on the right side of the designated stitch, insert hook from the front of your work through to the back.  Go around the stitch you are working by bringing the hook back out to the front and on the left side of the stitch.  The "post" of the stitch will be on your hook.
2.) Pull up a loop by yarning over and pulling your hook out of the stitch.
3.) Yarn over and pull through only 2 loops on hook
4.) Yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on your hook.

There are conflicting instructions on how to do a Puff stitch, so, just to make sure there is no confusion, this is how I do the Puff stitch for this hat.  
PUFF STITCH
1.) Yarn over, insert hook into designated stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), 
2.) Yarn over again, re-insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), 
3.) Yarn over again, re-insert hook into same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on hook), 
4.) Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook. 
5.) Chain 1 to close the stitch.


To make the V-PUFF starting in round 6 (see picture at the end of pattern): 
1.) Insert hook in chain space between the 2 puffs from 2 rounds previous
2.) Make a puff stitch
3.) Chain 1 more time
4.) Make another puff stitch in same place

One final thought; this hat was made to be a bit slouchy, not too much.  If you want it slouchier, just make it longer by repeating the pattern rounds a couple more times.  If you don't want it to slouch at all, but rather have a tighter fitting hat, I would suggest stopping at round 21 (maybe 23) and then moving on to the ribbing.  

Here we go with the free pattern.  There are pictures at the end to help with any confusion.

MEGHAN'S HAT (Adult size only)

Materials:

1 skein Caron Simply Soft, color Plum Perfect

size H 5mm crochet hook 

size E 3.5mm crochet hook

stitch marker (optional)
yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC - single crochet
ESC - extended single crochet
FPDC - front post double crochet


Using H hook, Make a ring
Round 1: SC 8 into ring, join in first sc made.  DON'T pull the ring all the way closed yet.

Round 2: CH 3, *Puff stitch into ring, CH 1 again* 6 times.  Join into top of first Puff made.  Now pull the ring closed.  6 Puff stitches made.  If you want to count the stitches, you should have 17. 

Round 3: CH 1, ESC in same stitch, 2 ESC's in Chain space, *ESC in top of next Puff stitch, 2 ESC's in next Chain space* repeat around.  Join in first ESC.  18 stitches.

Round 4: CH 3, Puff stitch into Chain space from round 2, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space, CH 1, *Puff stitch into next Chain space, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space, CH 1* repeat around.  Join into top of first Puff made.  12 Puff stitches made.  35 stitches.

Round 5: Ch 1, ESC in same stitch, 2 ESC's in Chain space, *ESC in top of next Puff stitch, 2 ESC's in next Chain space* repeat around.  Join in first ESC.  36 stitches.

Round 6: Slip stitch into next stitch, CH 1, 2 ESC's in same stitch as chain, 2 ESC in next stitch, skip next stitch, (Puff stitch into Chain space from round 4, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space - this creates the V-Puff), skip the next stitch, *2 ESC's in each of next 2 stitches, skip next stitch, V-Puff in next Chain space from round 4, skip next stitch* repeat around.  Join in first ESC.  6 V-Puffs made.  54 stitches.  (see picture below)

Round 7: CH 1, 2 ESC into same stitch as chain, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, 2 ESC's in next, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in Chain space, ESC in top of next Puff, *2 ESC's in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in Chain space, ESC in top of next Puff* repeat around.  Join into first ESC.  60 stitches.  (see picture below)

Round 8: CH 1, 2 ESC's in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in next stitch, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next stitch, make V-Puff in chain space from round 6, skip next stitch, *2 ESC's in next stitch, ESC in next, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in next stitch, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next, V-Puff in chain space, skip next stitch* repeat around.  Join into first ESC.  78 stitches.

Round 9: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in chain space, ESC in top of next Puff, *ESC in each of next 3 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in chain space, ESC in top of next Puff* repeat around. Join into first ESC.  72 stitches.

Round 10: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, V-Puff in chain space from 2 rounds previous, skip next stitch, *ESC in each of next 3 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, V-Puff into chain space, skip next* repeat around.  Join into first ESC.  78 stitches.

Rounds 11-25: Repeat rounds 9 and 10, ending with row 9.

Round 26: Change to E hook.  Slip stitch into next stitch, CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches.  This creates the ribbing.   Repeat *2 ESC's, 2 FPDC's* all the way around .  Join in first ESC.  72 stitches.

Rounds 27-32: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around next 2 FPDC's, *ESC in each of next 2 ESC's, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's* repeat around. Join in first ESC.  72 stitches.

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  

Starting with round 6 and rest of even rounds until ribbing, to make the V-Puff:

Skip the ESC that was worked into the top of puff.

Insert hook into chain space and work the V-Puff over top the the 2 ESC's in that space.  

Skip the ESC from the top of second puff.  
Continue with ESC as written in pattern.



The puff stitch is really a modified half double crochet with an extra chain to close it, which creates 2 stitches.  The chain to close it is at the top of the puff, with the technical hdc stitch being pushed to the right and kinda hanging out unattached to anything.  Making the V-puff in this pattern will result in 5 stitches (each puff creating 2 and the extra chain 1 in the middle):


1 is technically the 1st puff stitch
2 is the chain to close
3 is the chain 1
4 is the 2nd puff stitch
5 is the chain to close

Always skip #1, so the stitch count will not be consistent, even after the increase rounds.

Starting with round 7 and rest of odd rounds until ribbing, to work ESC's in to the V-Puff:

Skip stitch #1
ESC in #2
2 ESC's in space created by #3,4 
ESC in #5

Continue with ESC as written in pattern

So, I hope you made it through without too much trauma.  That was incredibly confusing for me to write up, but I really tried to make it as clear as possible.  If I have failed, let me know and I will figure out a better way of explaining everything, because it is an AWESOME hat, and it is actually pretty fun to make.

A Christmas Bonnet?

Since I have a sweater to knit that should have been done by the end of summer, I decided to work on something completely different.  (I will talk about that sweater in a future post, I just can't bear it right now.)  I figured I should get a jump on Christmas presents.  My sister-in-law, Jess, always looks fantastic in hats, so I figured that would be a good place to start.

Now Jess loves anything old-timey (is that a term?).  She is really in to Jane Austen books, Gone with the Wind, anything Titanic related - all that kind of stuff.  So I tried to keep that in mind as I decided what to do.  I picked out a couple of pretty colors from my stash and set to work.  This is the result:

It looks a bit more Easter bonnet-ish than I would have liked for a Christmas present, but I don't really know what I was expecting since I picked out 2 spring colors.  My brain must be subconsciously rejecting the onset of winter.  I do like the hat, though.  I might try to do it again in different colors, something more fitting for the occasion.

It's basically just a typical single crochet hat, but instead of doing a single crochet in each stitch, it is a single crochet, chain 1 in each chain 1 space.  And since you are skipping all the single crochet stitches, you are essentially only single crocheting half of the hat, the other half is chain 1's, so it gets done pretty quickly.  It also looks alot smoother and is less "holey" than a regular single crochet hat, but I don't think it has as much horizontal stretch.

It is made without joining the rounds for a seamless look.  I will avoid seamed hats at all cost.  I don't know why they bother me so much.  Every other article of clothing in the world has seams somewhere, but it just drives me crazy seeing that line run down the back of a crochet hat (even though non-crocheters claim they don't see it).  Since I already planned on putting a flower on this hat, I knew I could work it in a spiral , as the flower placement would cover the jog in the color change.  Anyway, I will stop jabbering on and get to the free pattern.

A Timeless Hat

Abbreviations:
SC - single crochet
CH - chain

Materials:
Less than 1 skein of Caron Simply Soft color Woodland Heather (color A)
Small amount of Caron Simply Soft color Victorian Rose (color B)
Size H 5mm crochet hook
Size I 5.5mm crochet hook
Size J 6mm crochet hook
Stitch marker
Yarn needle

Gauge: 6" across circle at end of round 15 (if you have a square at the end of this round, it should measure about 5-3/4" from side to side.  Also, see my post on how to make it a circle.)

Try to keep your chains loose, especially on the increase rounds, as it will help you get the hook in the right spot.

Child and Adult size
With color A and size "H" hook, Make a ring
Round 1: SC 8 into ring, do not join.  For the rest of the rounds, place your stitch marker in the first SC of each round so you know where the round begins.
Round 2: (SC, CH 1) in each SC around - 16 stitches
Round 3: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next CH 1 space.  Repeat around - 24 stitches
Round 4: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 2 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 32 stitches
Round 5: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 3 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 40 stitches
Round 6: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 4 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 48 stitches
Round 7: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 5 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 56 stitches
Round 8: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 6 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 64 stitches
Round 9: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 7 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 72 stitches
Round 10: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 8 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 80 stitches
Round 11: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 9 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 88 stitches
Round 12: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 10 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 96 stitches.  If making an adult's size hat, stop here and continue to Adult Round 13 below
Rounds 13-25: (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Rounds 26-31: Change to color B, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Round 32: Change back to color A, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Rounds 33-34: Switch to "I" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Rounds 35-39: Switch to "J" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches

Slip stitch into the next CH 1 space.  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  Attach your favorite button or flower to hide where the color change is apparent.

Adult
Round 13: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 11 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 104 stitches
Round 14: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 12 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 112 stitches
Round 15: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 13 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 120 stitches
Rounds 16-31: (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Rounds 32-37: Change to color B, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Round 38: Change back to color A, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Rounds 39-40: Switch to "I" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Rounds 41-45: Switch to "J" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches

Slip stitch into the next CH 1 space.  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  Attach your favorite button or flower to hide where the color change is apparent.

It really is a cute hat.  I think I might rip it back to do the child size for my niece in the spring.  I jokingly asked my son if he wanted it, to which I received the response "eew, that's a girl hat".  Can't argue with that.

Tree Skirt Done

I have spent the entire day sewing these hexagon snowflakes together, and I am calling it done - for now.  I think it needs some sort of border or another round of motifs.  It looks pretty good as is, just a bit small.

I will say that I should have joined the motifs together as I went, but I wasn't sure of how I wanted them all to be positioned when I started.  When doing a project like this next time, I will certainly take the time before hand to sketch out what the end result should look like and join as I go.





I used a total of 36 hexagons - 12 green and 24 red - arranged so each green was surrounded by reds.









Stuff I used:

Pattern Link:  http://www.artoftangle.com/snowflake.htm
Hook:  Susan Bates "G" or Clover "E"
Yarn:  2 skeins Caron Party Snow Sparkle
           1 skein Caron Simply Soft White
           1 skein Caron Simply Soft Dark Sage
           1-1/2 skeins Caron Simply Soft Burgundy