A Cowl for Me!

Isn't this a beautiful stitch?!  Depending on how you look at it you can see v's or x's or stars.  And it creates these lovely diagonal ridges across the surface.

I started out trying to make a nice dense, sturdy fabric for a cowl.  I wanted it to hold its shape so I could pull it up over my face without squishing my big nose.  I can then fold it in or scrunch it down if it is not so miserable outside.  I wasn't expecting it to look so... elegant.  I feel so fancy when I put it this cowl on.  


















The cowl is made by repeating a type of Trinity Stitch (more details in the pattern) in the round, except the 2nd leg of the stitch gets worked over the next stitch into the stitch below it.  So I guess you would call it the Trinity Spike Stitch (which I will do unless I am corrected). 

If you plan on making the cowl using different yarn, or using this stitch to create something else, keep in mind it does create a stiff fabric.  Maybe try a test swatch to see if your yarn and hook size create the look and feel you want.   Try to keep a loose gauge, and remember that most yarns do soften up a bit after being washed.  

The Trinity Spike Stitch requires a multiple of 2 stitches, plus 1 for the starting chain.  So you can easily change the size of this cowl by increasing/decreasing starting chains or increasing/decreasing the amount of rounds worked.

Beautifully Elegant Cowl

Materials:

2 skeins Caron Simply Soft, color Off White

size K 6.5mm crochet hook 

stitch marker

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC3TOG - single crochet 3 together: Insert hook into designated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop - 4 loops on hook.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.  This gives you 1 stitch with 3 "legs".  (In this pattern, it is performed like the Trinity Stitch, where the first leg is placed in the same place as the last leg of the previous stitch.  After the first row, it is still performed like the Trinity Stitch, except the 2nd leg will be worked into the stitch below to create the Trinity Spike Stitch.)

Holding 2 strands of yarn together, Chain 75
Row 1: Insert hook into 2nd chain and SC3TOG, CH 1, (insert hook into same chain as the last leg was worked and SC3TOG, CH 1) repeat across until you have 1 unworked chain stitch remaining.  Work the 3 legs of the last SC3TOG into the same stitch as last leg, the last chain stitch, and the same chain as the first leg from the beginning of the row to create a circle (see picture below), making sure not to twist the row as you connect the 2 ends. CH 1 (keep this last CH 1 a bit tighter to avoid a hole).  74 stitches.  
.
Rounds 1-25: Create the beginning SC3TOG of the round as follows: Insert hook into chain stitch just made, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into stitch where first and last leg of the previous round meet, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into top chain of first SC3TOG made from previous round, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and draw through 4 loops on hook.  Place a stitch marker in the stitch just made.  CH 1.  (SC3TOG the rest of the round as follows: Insert hook into same space as last leg of previous stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into the place where 2 legs meet in the stitch below, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook into top chain of next SC3TOG, yarn over and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook - Trinity Spike Stitch made.  CH 1)  Repeat Trinity Spike Stitch, CH 1 around.  The last leg of the last stitch should be in same space as the first leg of the first stitch of the round.  (Keep the last CH 1 of each round a bit tighter to avoid a hole.)  74 stitches.

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.

Complete last SC3TOG of first row like this

Complete first Trinity Spike Stitch of each round like this

Complete the rest of the Trinity Spike Stitches like this

When you come up to your stitch marker, you know this is the last Trinity Spike Stitch of the round.

The anatomy of the Trinity Spike Stitch:
1.) first leg of current stitch 
2.) second leg of current stitch
3.) last leg of current stitch (next stitch would begin in same place)
4,5.) 2 legs meet in stitch below from previous round
6.) stitch created by the SC3TOG
7.) the CH 1

The second leg of each stitch will be in the place where 4 and 5 meet below.  You will never work into the 6 created by each SC3TOG.


I didn't add any sort of edging because, well, I didn't want to.  But you certainly could.  Go ahead and "make it your own"!  

Peppermint Candy Hat

I recently remembered an afghan I saw in a book from the library that was made up of what looked like those peppermint candy swirls.  I thought it would make cute as a hat.  The problem is, I have looked at like a thousand pattern books, so who the heck knows which one the pattern was in. So, off I went trying to create it on my own.

I assumed it was made by changing colors every few stitches, so that is what I tried first.  I couldn't even get through the 3rd round doing it that way.  Dropping the yarn and picking up the new color every couple stitches drove me crazy.  I just wasn't able to get into the rhythm of it.  I nixed that idea and found a way to work it where I would only change colors once per round.  It is probably not the most conventional way to make this, and it uses more yarn than necessary, but it was a much more pleasant experience and it looks great (which is really all that matters).

The look is achieved by working the colors into the stitch of the same color and chaining past the stitches of the alternate color.  Then switch colors on the next round, push the chain stitches to the back, and work into the stitches that were ignored during the last round.  


Keep your chains looser so the hat won't lose its stretch.  The extra chains at the end of each round are to get you to the right place for the beginning of the next round.   Make sure to pull the dropped yarn tight after making the first stitch with new color.

If I were going to sell this, I would line the inside because it is a bit unsightly.  But it is for my baby niece, and I know my sister-in-law won't mind.  I just hope it fits well.  I have it on a ball that measures 18" around and it is just about stretched all the way while still being comfortable.

Peppermint Candy Hat (Baby size only, should fit 16-18" head)

Materials:

Caron Simply Soft, color White 

Caron Simply Soft, color Harvest Red 
Bernat Pipsqueak, color White (for the trim)
size I 5.5mm crochet hook 

stitch marker (optional)

yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC - single crochet
HDC - half-double crochet
SS - slip stitch

Make a ring
Round 1: With Caron White, (HDC 1, CH 1) 6 times in ring.  SS in first HDC made, SS to first CH space of the round.  DON'T pull ring closed yet.  12 sititches

Round 2: With Red, CH 1, (HDC down into ring, CH 2) 6 times.  SS in first HDC made, SS in first CH space of the round.  Can close ring now.  18 stitches  

Round 3: With White, CH 1, working in front of the chain from previous round from now through the rest of the pattern, (2 HDC in HDC, CH 2) around. CH 2, SS in first chain space of the round,  24 stitches

Round 4: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in HDC, CH 3) around.  CH 2, SS in first chain space of the round.  30 stitches

Round 5: White, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in next, CH 3) around.  CH 3, SS in first chain space of the round.  36 stitches

Round 6: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in next, CH 4) around.  CH 3, SS in first chain space.  42 stitches

Round 7: White, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 2 HDC's, CH 4) around.  CH 4, SS in first chain space.  48 stitches

Round 8: Red, CH 1, (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 2 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 4, SS in first chain space.  54 stitches

Round 9: White, CH 1 (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 3 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 10: Red, CH 1 (2 HDC in first HDC, 1 HDC in each of next 3 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 11: White, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Round 12: Red, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 HDC's, CH 5) around.  CH 5, SS in first chain space.  60 stitches

Rounds 13 - 28: Repeat rounds 11 and 12

Round 29: White, CH 1, (HDC in each of 5 White HDC's, SC in each of 5 Red HDC's) repeat around.  60 stitches

Round 30:  With Pipsqueak White, CH 1, 1 HDC in each stitch around.  60 stitches (You may want to use a stitch marker to mark beginning of next round.)

Round 31: CH 1, (1 HDC in 8 stitches, HDC 2 together) repeat around.  54 stitches

Round 32: CH 1, 1 HDC in each stitch around.  54 stitches

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  

And if anyone knows where to find the afghan pattern I was talking about, please post it in the comments.  Thanks!

Happy Birthday, Sis!

Since I already had some purple yarn out for that owl hat, I figured it would work up into a great hat for my sister.  I planned on it being a Christmas present, but since I finished it in time (and since I have no self control), I decided to give it to her as a birthday present.  I absolutely LOVE it! 

Now, the pattern for this hat looks a bit wordy and confusing, but I promise you it is super easy.  So, don't scroll down to the free pattern yet.  Let me explain something first.  This is the kind of pattern where you can see what you are supposed to do while you are doing it (you may find you don't really need the pattern anymore once you get going).  For the most part, everything is done in the same place from previous rounds: FPDC's go around FPDC's, V-Puff's go into V-Puffs, ESC's in ESC's.  So after the increases, it is really a simple pattern -  3 ESC's, 2 FPDC's, 3 ESC's, V-Puff...  

But what the heck is an ESC?  I know!  This is the first time I have ever needed to use an extended single crochet stitch.  It is basically a stitch that starts like a single crochet, but finishes kinda like a double.  
EXTENDED SINGLE CROCHET:
1.) Insert your hook into the specific stitch, pull up a loop, and yarn over (just like single crochet)
2.) But now only pull that yarn over through 1 loop on your hook, not both (2 loops left on hook).
3.) Then you yarn over again and pull through both loops on your hook.  

I had to use the ESC because the half-double and double crochet didn't work for me.  The half-double makes everything go on a diagonal when worked in the round, which I didn't want for this hat.  And the double crochet was too tall and made the FPDC ribs curl.  Now, the double crochet stitch might work for others, as we all use our hook a bit differently, but for me it was too tall.  So if you would rather try that then go ahead, but the ESC is really easy to do.

FRONT-POST DOUBLE CROCHET:
1.) Yarn over and on the right side of the designated stitch, insert hook from the front of your work through to the back.  Go around the stitch you are working by bringing the hook back out to the front and on the left side of the stitch.  The "post" of the stitch will be on your hook.
2.) Pull up a loop by yarning over and pulling your hook out of the stitch.
3.) Yarn over and pull through only 2 loops on hook
4.) Yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops on your hook.

There are conflicting instructions on how to do a Puff stitch, so, just to make sure there is no confusion, this is how I do the Puff stitch for this hat.  
PUFF STITCH
1.) Yarn over, insert hook into designated stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), 
2.) Yarn over again, re-insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), 
3.) Yarn over again, re-insert hook into same stitch again, pull up a loop, (7 loops on hook), 
4.) Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook. 
5.) Chain 1 to close the stitch.


To make the V-PUFF starting in round 6 (see picture at the end of pattern): 
1.) Insert hook in chain space between the 2 puffs from 2 rounds previous
2.) Make a puff stitch
3.) Chain 1 more time
4.) Make another puff stitch in same place

One final thought; this hat was made to be a bit slouchy, not too much.  If you want it slouchier, just make it longer by repeating the pattern rounds a couple more times.  If you don't want it to slouch at all, but rather have a tighter fitting hat, I would suggest stopping at round 21 (maybe 23) and then moving on to the ribbing.  

Here we go with the free pattern.  There are pictures at the end to help with any confusion.

MEGHAN'S HAT (Adult size only)

Materials:

1 skein Caron Simply Soft, color Plum Perfect

size H 5mm crochet hook 

size E 3.5mm crochet hook

stitch marker (optional)
yarn needle

Abbreviations:
CH - chain
SC - single crochet
ESC - extended single crochet
FPDC - front post double crochet


Using H hook, Make a ring
Round 1: SC 8 into ring, join in first sc made.  DON'T pull the ring all the way closed yet.

Round 2: CH 3, *Puff stitch into ring, CH 1 again* 6 times.  Join into top of first Puff made.  Now pull the ring closed.  6 Puff stitches made.  If you want to count the stitches, you should have 17. 

Round 3: CH 1, ESC in same stitch, 2 ESC's in Chain space, *ESC in top of next Puff stitch, 2 ESC's in next Chain space* repeat around.  Join in first ESC.  18 stitches.

Round 4: CH 3, Puff stitch into Chain space from round 2, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space, CH 1, *Puff stitch into next Chain space, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space, CH 1* repeat around.  Join into top of first Puff made.  12 Puff stitches made.  35 stitches.

Round 5: Ch 1, ESC in same stitch, 2 ESC's in Chain space, *ESC in top of next Puff stitch, 2 ESC's in next Chain space* repeat around.  Join in first ESC.  36 stitches.

Round 6: Slip stitch into next stitch, CH 1, 2 ESC's in same stitch as chain, 2 ESC in next stitch, skip next stitch, (Puff stitch into Chain space from round 4, CH 1, Puff stitch into same space - this creates the V-Puff), skip the next stitch, *2 ESC's in each of next 2 stitches, skip next stitch, V-Puff in next Chain space from round 4, skip next stitch* repeat around.  Join in first ESC.  6 V-Puffs made.  54 stitches.  (see picture below)

Round 7: CH 1, 2 ESC into same stitch as chain, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, 2 ESC's in next, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in Chain space, ESC in top of next Puff, *2 ESC's in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in Chain space, ESC in top of next Puff* repeat around.  Join into first ESC.  60 stitches.  (see picture below)

Round 8: CH 1, 2 ESC's in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in next stitch, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next stitch, make V-Puff in chain space from round 6, skip next stitch, *2 ESC's in next stitch, ESC in next, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in next stitch, 2 ESC's in next stitch, skip next, V-Puff in chain space, skip next stitch* repeat around.  Join into first ESC.  78 stitches.

Round 9: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in chain space, ESC in top of next Puff, *ESC in each of next 3 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3, skip next, ESC in top of Puff, 2 ESC's in chain space, ESC in top of next Puff* repeat around. Join into first ESC.  72 stitches.

Round 10: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, V-Puff in chain space from 2 rounds previous, skip next stitch, *ESC in each of next 3 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 3 stitches, skip next, V-Puff into chain space, skip next* repeat around.  Join into first ESC.  78 stitches.

Rounds 11-25: Repeat rounds 9 and 10, ending with row 9.

Round 26: Change to E hook.  Slip stitch into next stitch, CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches, ESC in each of next 2 stitches, FPDC around each of next 2 stitches.  This creates the ribbing.   Repeat *2 ESC's, 2 FPDC's* all the way around .  Join in first ESC.  72 stitches.

Rounds 27-32: CH 1, ESC in same stitch as chain, ESC in next stitch, FPDC around next 2 FPDC's, *ESC in each of next 2 ESC's, FPDC around each of next 2 FPDC's* repeat around. Join in first ESC.  72 stitches.

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  

Starting with round 6 and rest of even rounds until ribbing, to make the V-Puff:

Skip the ESC that was worked into the top of puff.

Insert hook into chain space and work the V-Puff over top the the 2 ESC's in that space.  

Skip the ESC from the top of second puff.  
Continue with ESC as written in pattern.



The puff stitch is really a modified half double crochet with an extra chain to close it, which creates 2 stitches.  The chain to close it is at the top of the puff, with the technical hdc stitch being pushed to the right and kinda hanging out unattached to anything.  Making the V-puff in this pattern will result in 5 stitches (each puff creating 2 and the extra chain 1 in the middle):


1 is technically the 1st puff stitch
2 is the chain to close
3 is the chain 1
4 is the 2nd puff stitch
5 is the chain to close

Always skip #1, so the stitch count will not be consistent, even after the increase rounds.

Starting with round 7 and rest of odd rounds until ribbing, to work ESC's in to the V-Puff:

Skip stitch #1
ESC in #2
2 ESC's in space created by #3,4 
ESC in #5

Continue with ESC as written in pattern

So, I hope you made it through without too much trauma.  That was incredibly confusing for me to write up, but I really tried to make it as clear as possible.  If I have failed, let me know and I will figure out a better way of explaining everything, because it is an AWESOME hat, and it is actually pretty fun to make.

A Christmas Bonnet?

Since I have a sweater to knit that should have been done by the end of summer, I decided to work on something completely different.  (I will talk about that sweater in a future post, I just can't bear it right now.)  I figured I should get a jump on Christmas presents.  My sister-in-law, Jess, always looks fantastic in hats, so I figured that would be a good place to start.

Now Jess loves anything old-timey (is that a term?).  She is really in to Jane Austen books, Gone with the Wind, anything Titanic related - all that kind of stuff.  So I tried to keep that in mind as I decided what to do.  I picked out a couple of pretty colors from my stash and set to work.  This is the result:

It looks a bit more Easter bonnet-ish than I would have liked for a Christmas present, but I don't really know what I was expecting since I picked out 2 spring colors.  My brain must be subconsciously rejecting the onset of winter.  I do like the hat, though.  I might try to do it again in different colors, something more fitting for the occasion.

It's basically just a typical single crochet hat, but instead of doing a single crochet in each stitch, it is a single crochet, chain 1 in each chain 1 space.  And since you are skipping all the single crochet stitches, you are essentially only single crocheting half of the hat, the other half is chain 1's, so it gets done pretty quickly.  It also looks alot smoother and is less "holey" than a regular single crochet hat, but I don't think it has as much horizontal stretch.

It is made without joining the rounds for a seamless look.  I will avoid seamed hats at all cost.  I don't know why they bother me so much.  Every other article of clothing in the world has seams somewhere, but it just drives me crazy seeing that line run down the back of a crochet hat (even though non-crocheters claim they don't see it).  Since I already planned on putting a flower on this hat, I knew I could work it in a spiral , as the flower placement would cover the jog in the color change.  Anyway, I will stop jabbering on and get to the free pattern.

A Timeless Hat

Abbreviations:
SC - single crochet
CH - chain

Materials:
Less than 1 skein of Caron Simply Soft color Woodland Heather (color A)
Small amount of Caron Simply Soft color Victorian Rose (color B)
Size H 5mm crochet hook
Size I 5.5mm crochet hook
Size J 6mm crochet hook
Stitch marker
Yarn needle

Gauge: 6" across circle at end of round 15 (if you have a square at the end of this round, it should measure about 5-3/4" from side to side.  Also, see my post on how to make it a circle.)

Try to keep your chains loose, especially on the increase rounds, as it will help you get the hook in the right spot.

Child and Adult size
With color A and size "H" hook, Make a ring
Round 1: SC 8 into ring, do not join.  For the rest of the rounds, place your stitch marker in the first SC of each round so you know where the round begins.
Round 2: (SC, CH 1) in each SC around - 16 stitches
Round 3: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next CH 1 space.  Repeat around - 24 stitches
Round 4: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 2 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 32 stitches
Round 5: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 3 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 40 stitches
Round 6: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 4 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 48 stitches
Round 7: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 5 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 56 stitches
Round 8: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 6 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 64 stitches
Round 9: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 7 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 72 stitches
Round 10: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 8 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 80 stitches
Round 11: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 9 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 88 stitches
Round 12: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 10 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 96 stitches.  If making an adult's size hat, stop here and continue to Adult Round 13 below
Rounds 13-25: (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Rounds 26-31: Change to color B, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Round 32: Change back to color A, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Rounds 33-34: Switch to "I" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches
Rounds 35-39: Switch to "J" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 96 stitches

Slip stitch into the next CH 1 space.  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  Attach your favorite button or flower to hide where the color change is apparent.

Adult
Round 13: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 11 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 104 stitches
Round 14: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 12 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 112 stitches
Round 15: (SC, CH 1) twice in CH 1 space, (SC, CH 1) once in next 13 CH 1 spaces.  Repeat around - 120 stitches
Rounds 16-31: (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Rounds 32-37: Change to color B, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Round 38: Change back to color A, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Rounds 39-40: Switch to "I" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches
Rounds 41-45: Switch to "J" size hook, (SC, CH 1) once in each CH 1 space around - 120 stitches

Slip stitch into the next CH 1 space.  Fasten off and weave in those ends.  Attach your favorite button or flower to hide where the color change is apparent.

It really is a cute hat.  I think I might rip it back to do the child size for my niece in the spring.  I jokingly asked my son if he wanted it, to which I received the response "eew, that's a girl hat".  Can't argue with that.

Been Busy

Wow!  I have not been on here in a very long while.  Sadly, I have not had the time to do much yarning over the past months.  The summer here was just beautiful, and most of my time was spent outside with my son.  I live in a city that normally gets incredibly hot and humid between June and September, so it feels like we spend more time inside in the air conditioning than outside.  But not this year - this year was perfect.  

I also spent time doing some much needed home improvements.  I had to tear down the tile in my shower, walls and all, and put up new.  Let me tell you, that was NOT fun, and took way more time than I had anticipated.  I hope I did a good job so I never have to do that again.  I then had to paint one side of my house, which was more fun than the tiling job, but it was time consuming.  I still can't believe I didn't know the house's exterior was wood when I bought it - I thought it had siding.  I guess the previous owner did a better job of keeping up with the painting than I do.

And, on top of all that, I got a kitten.  So, no yarn for me unless she is sleeping.  I may think she is happily distracted rolling a ball around or playing with a paper bag, but as soon as I get started on something, she comes running.  I swear she can hear me pull the yarn out of the skein.  But I did manage to make her a nice squishy bed, and use up some unpleasant yarn from my stash as well.

I shouldn't say "unpleasant" - I actually LOVE this yarn.  It is beautifully colored, soft, thick, and squishy.  The problem is that it is so hard to work with (for me).  The yarn I am speaking of is Lion Brand Homespun.  Crocheting with it is darn near impossible.  It is so hard to see the stitches because the yarn is bumpy, but the bumpiness is what makes it such a beautiful yarn.  

I bought alot of Homespun yarn thinking I would make a nice bulky sweater-type coat with it (still have yet to make myself a sweater).  And then I found some on sale and bought more.  And THEN I worked with it.  Never buy alot of yarn without knowing how you like working with it.  I have crocheted a few things with it - a set of coasters, an infinity scarf, and some mug cozies.  It works up really quick, and is a great yarn if missing a few stitches here or there doesn't matter.  Don't try to pull back to fix them - odds are the yarn will be knotted up.  But, because of the bumpiness of the yarn, you can't see the mistakes anyway:)

So I decided to try to knit with it.  It is much easier than crocheting, but I knit tightly so it is tricky for me to not split the yarn with the needle.  And there is no stretch to this yarn.  I really had to concentrate on loosening up.  But I managed to use up a couple of skeins out of my stash and give my little kitty a super cozy bed.

This cat bed is so squishy, I thought about making one for myself!  I made it extra think because the floors will get very cold here this winter.  It is so easy to make, too.  I didn't want to use any stuffing because I want to put it in the washing machine without getting all lumpy.  So, I just knitted in garter stitch to make what looks like a big rectangle with the corners cut out.  Fold in half and roll the sides up together to make a bed with 3 rolled sides.

I made this a few months ago, and I seem to have forgotten to make a note of how much yarn I used.  But, I think it was about 2-1/2 skeins.  Here is the pattern.


SQUISHY CAT BED

Finished size is 18" x 10".

Materials:
Lion Brand Homespun - 2-1/2 skeins
Size 11 (8.0 mm) circular knitting needles (used like straight needles)
Sewing needle

Holding 2 strands of yarn together, cast on 60 
Rows 1-20: Knit each stitch.
Row 21: Add 12 new stitches to beginning of row.  Knit to the end of row.  (here's how)
Row 22: Add 12 new stitches to beginning of row.  Knit to the end of row.
Rows 23-90: Knit each stitch.
Row 91: Cast off 12 stitches.  Knit remaining stitches to end of row.
Row 92: Cast off 12 stitches.  Knit remaining stitches to end of row.
Rows 93-113: Knit each stitch.
Cast off

This is what you should have (except made out of yarn and not paper).  Fold in half and sew together.  

Now, roll up the 3 sides that stick out and sew to the bottom of the bed.  

Sew along the corners to hold together.  Weave in ends.  Done!

Where Have All the Lambs Gone?

So winter doesn't want to end this year.  Fine.  March came in like a lion and is going out like a... lion.  I decided to crochet a scarf in an effort to bring on some spring.  I chose the thickest yarn in my stash in a nice winter-ish color.  It's been washed and is drying as I write.  So while I do look forward to wearing it tomorrow, I hope I have tempted fate enough to bring me some spring!

Eternal Winter Infinity Scarf

I figured I had to make an infinity scarf to go along with this never-ending winter.  It is made without joining, in the spiral fashion, for a no-seam look (just as winter gave us no breaks).  I love how it looks like a big, thick, squishy knit when it is actually crocheted. 

This scarf is so stinking easy and fast to make.  And once you get past counting the chain, barely any brain cells are needed.  It does require knowing how to place the hook in the right spot though, so some who have never done this might have a hard time seeing the difference in loops.   

For this pattern, don't put your hook in the "V" like normal.  There is actually another loop in the back of the stitch under the "V".  This is where you are going to be inserting your hook. Then complete the stitch as normal.  This way, you are pushing the "V" down and towards you, which is what creates the knit look.

It looks really good using thinner yarn and a smaller hook also.

I typically like my scarves a bit thinner than most, but this pattern can be easily modified to be longer (more starting chains), shorter (fewer starting chains), wider (more rows), or thinner (fewer rows).  The only thing that matters is to crochet into that back bottom loop of the half-double crochet to keep the knit look.  And the stitches all have to be going in the same direction, so no turning for this pattern.  


ETERNAL WINTER INFINITY SCARF

Measures almost 5 inches wide and 54 inches around.

Stuff I Used:
1 entire skein Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick
Size P hook, 11-1/2 mm
Yarn needle

Stitches used: ss - slip stitch, sc - single crochet, hdc - half-double crochet
                          special - place hook in back bottom loop of stitch, not in the "v"

Ch 75.  Join with a ss in first chain.  Do not ch 1.
Round 1:  hdc in same ch as join.  hdc in each ch around.  Do not join.
Rounds 2-7:  hdc special of first hdc of last round, and in each hdc around.
Round 8: sc special in first hdc, loosely ss special in each hdc around.  

Done!  Fasten off and weave in those annoying ends.

Gracie's Hat

Here is the pattern for the hat I made for Michelle's new daughter, Gracie.  It is a very simple pattern.  Doesn't require much counting, but isn't as boring as a plain single crochet hat.   Once done with the increase rounds it is an absolute breeze.  I wrote up a pattern for newborn, baby and child.  This hat has a lot of stretch to it, so keep that in mind.  There are a couple of pictures with notes after the newborn size pattern to help with any confusion.

Stuff I used:

Clover I - 5.5 mm hook

Clover H - 5 mm hook

Caron Simply Soft color Off White

Stitch Marker

Gauge:  End of Round 5 should measure around 3.75" across flat circle.

Throughout the pattern: All stitches are made into the single crochet stitches; the double crochet stitches are ignored.  Join each round with a slip stitch into the first single crochet stitch of that round, NOT the chain-1.  Do NOT turn.  When starting a new round, the first cluster goes into the same stitch as the join from previous round.  The last round is done using the smaller size hook.  

I recommend marking your first single crochet of each round, especially through the increase rounds, to make it easier to see the beginning of the round.

Special stitches: CL - cluster- (sc, dc, dc) all in same stitch

                                

Newborn: About 12" finished circumference

Using I hook, Make a ring

Round 1:   Ch 1, *sc, dc, dc* repeat 3 more times in ring.  Join - 12 stitches

Round 2:   Ch 1, 2 CL in each sc around.  Join - 8 clusters

Round 3:   Ch 1, *2 CL in sc, 1 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 12 clusters

Round 4:   Ch 1, *1 CL in sc, 1 CL in next sc, 2 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 16                                   clusters 
Rounds 5-14:  Ch 1, 1 Cluster in each sc around.  Join - 16 clusters

Change to H hook

Round 15:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join.  5 dc in next sc, *sc in next sc, 5 dc in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 8 shells.

Your done! Fasten off and weave in those ends.

It does look a bit like a flower in the beginning, but rounds out after all the increases

Baby: About 14" finished circumference

Using I hook, Make a ring

Round 1:   Ch 1, *sc, dc, dc* repeat 3 more times in ring.  Join in sc - 12 stitches

Round 2:   Ch 1, 2 CL in each sc around.  Join - 8 clusters

Round 3:   Ch 1, *2 CL in sc, 1 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 12 clusters

Round 4:   Ch 1, *1 CL in sc, 1 CL in next sc, 2 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 16                                   clusters

Round 5:   Ch 1, 1 CL in each sc around, join - 16 clusters

Round 6:   Ch 1, *1 CL in sc, 2 CL in next sc, 1 CL in each of next 2 sc* repeat around.  Join -                       20 clusters

Rounds 7- 18:  Ch 1, 1 CL in each sc around.  Join - 20 clusters

Change to H hook

Round 19:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join.  5 dc in next sc, *sc in next sc, 5 dc in next sc*                                 repeat around. Join - 10 shells

Your done! Fasten off and weave in those ends.

Child: About 17" finished circumference

Using I hook, Make a ring

Round 1:   Ch 1, *sc, dc, dc* repeat 3 more times in ring.  Join - 12 stitches

Round 2:   Ch 1, 2 CL in each sc around.  Join - 8 clusters

Round 3:   Ch 1, *2 CL in sc, 1 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 12 clusters

Round 4:   Ch 1, *1 CL in sc, 1 CL in next sc, 2 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 16                                   clusters

Round 5:   Ch 1, 1 CL in each sc around, join - 16 clusters

Round 6:   Ch 1, *1 CL in sc, 2 CL in next sc, 1 CL in each of next 2 sc* repeat around.  Join -                       20 clusters

Round 7:   Ch 1, 1 CL in each sc around.  Join - 20 clusters

Round 8:   Ch 1, *1 CL in each of next 4 sc, 2 CL in next sc* repeat around.  Join - 24 clusters

Rounds 9-22:  Ch1, 1 CL in each sc around.  Join - 24 clusters

Change to H hook

Round 23:  Ch 1, sc in same stitch as join.  5 dc in next sc, *sc in next sc, 5 dc in next sc*                                 repeat around.  Join - 12 shells

Your done! Fasten off and weave in those ends.